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What Wise Guys Eat
When I lived in the North End of Boston in the 1980s and 1990s, I would occasionally hang out at a neighborhood bar called The Corner Café. It was located on Prince Street near the corner of Salem Street. And indeed it was a neighborhood place. The owner, Richie Longo, was a neighborhood kid who grew up on Prince Street and duly attended Saint Leonard’s School, as his first-generation Italian-American parents had, along with the rest of the neighborhood kids.
The usual patrons of the time were also people from the neighborhood; all of whom seemed to have nicknames. (although, nicknames were useful for identification). There was Joe the lawyer, who wasn’t a lawyer at all, but worked as an insurance investigator. Then there was John the lawyer, who was a stockbroker, and John the lawyer, who was really a lawyer with an office down the street. And I was always mistaken for Mary the Nurse, whose nickname seemed unnecessary; she was actually a nurse, but she was the only regular named Mary.
Then there were the rest of the regulars: mostly young men, who thought they were wise guys. Their conversations were filled with phrases like “fuggeddaboudit” and “ba-da-bing!” And they often talked about “need to see this guy” or “have to take care of this thing”. But as much as they worshiped Robert DiNiro, and perhaps had dreams of being known by a nickname like “extreme anointing,” the worst crime either of them ever committed was rooting for the Red Sox in late September.
When these local heroes weren’t talking about “this guy” or “that thing,” however, the conversation tended to turn to food; often, towards Chicken Scarpariello. This was a hot plate, literally and figuratively, during my years in Boston. And people often debated the qualities of one preparation over another. The talk often focused on the merits of Cantina d’Italia’s recipe, which included sausage, over Felicia’s, which did not. Sausage or not, however, Chicken Scarpariello is the kind of dish any savant would enjoy because it encourages eating with a fork in one hand and a piece of crusty bread in the other; the latter, which is used to soak up the sauce and to mark various exclamations of “fuggeddaboudit” or “ba-da-bing.”
The short version of the Scarpariello “cobbler-style” chicken story is that it was named after the humble man who prepared the ingredients for the dish from his meager pantry. How he became a favorite sage is more obscure, and has most likely been lost to history. But I suggest that when you serve Chicken Scarpariello at home, dinner table conversation will liven up and raise a decibel or two above normal. And will you and your colleagues enjoy it? Fuggeddaboudit.
Skip’s Chicken Scarpariello
Chicken, cobbler style
Excerpted from my second cookbook, “Quasi Italian”.
2 ½ — 3 pounds Fry chicken cut into 8 pieces
4 tablespoons Olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine (Pinot Grigio or Verdicchio are popular choices)
6 – 8 hot cherry peppers, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 14 oz. Can of chicken broth (preferably low sodium)
4 tablespoons Flat-leaf Italian parsley
2 tablespoons Unsalted butter
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Six Links sweet Italian sausage, cut into 1-inch pieces (optional)
4 tablespoons Flat-leaf Italian parsley
Season the chicken pieces on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Add the garlic and sauté for about 1 minute, being careful not to burn the garlic.
Add the chicken pieces to the pan without crowding them. Do this step in batches if necessary. Cook the chicken pieces, turning them from time to time, until they are golden brown all over; about 10 minutes. Remove the chicken pieces from the pan and set them aside on a plate, covering them with aluminum foil.
Raise the heat to high and add the wine. Boil, stirring with a wooden spoon to loosen any bits of chicken that have caramelized on the bottom of the pan, for about 2 minutes. Add the cherry peppers, chicken stock, parsley and butter. Bring the mixture back to a boil, then add the lemon juice. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed.
Reduce the heat to a simmer, return the chicken to the pan and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes. For a truly sage presentation, add the sausage at this point as well.
Remove the chicken pieces (and optional sausage) to a plate, cover with the sauce and garnish with the parsley. Serve with plenty of Italian bread to soak up the sauce.
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