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How to Figure the Number of Rings Needed to Make a Byzantine Necklace

Byzantine is the most popular and recognized fabric in mesh jewelry. There are numerous places on the internet to find patterns, but most people have a hard time figuring out what size to use and how many rings they will need. It doesn’t help that so many of the older patterns were written long ago when chainmakers used to make their own rings from the cut shank of a screwdriver or wooden dowel that actually got a little smaller each time the they used Then they put their ring on a ruler and choose the nearest fraction according to the size.

Today rings are made with a little more precision. Specialized mandrels are machine ground to exact millimeters. Digital calipers will give you an accurate reading. High quality saw cut rings are sold by the troy ounce in hundreds of sizes. So many sizes, in fact, that beginners are commonly confused by all the options, especially if they’re trying to convert the fractions of an inch their pattern calls for to the millimeter sizes most chain ring companies use.

After much testing, the ideal sizes for the Byzantine fabric were determined. Once you’ve decided what gauge wire you want to work with, you can select the correct ring size based on these recommendations. But how many to buy? To answer that, you need a few more details, one that only you can provide: How long do you want your chain? The next step in the formula is “How many loops do you need to knit one inch of chain”? To find out, you need to weave an inch of chain and count them. Fortunately, this step has already been done for you.

So now let’s get down to the simple math. The ideal ring size for Byzantines in 22 gauge is 2.25mm ID and you need 40 rings to make one inch of chain. If you want a 20 inch necklace, the formula would be: 20 (inches of chain) x 40 (rings per inch (rpi)) = 800 22ga/2.25mm rings.

To go up a gauge to 20, the ideal ring size is 2.75mm ID and the rpi is 33. Again, I’m using a 20 inch chain as an example. 20 x 33 = 660 20ga/2.75mm rings.

If you want to use 18 gauge wire, you’ll want to order 3.5mm ID rings and you’ll need 26 rings per inch. 20 x 26 = 520 18ga/3.5mm rings.

The most popular wire size for Byzantines is 16 gauge and 4.5mm ID is the perfect ring size. At this size you need 20 rings per inch: 20 (chain length) x 20 (rings per inch) = 400 16ga/4.5mm rings.

With 14 gauge wire, move up to 5.5mm ID rings and 16 rings per inch. 20 x 16 = 320 14ga/5.5mm rings.

Note that this does not take into account the length of the clasp. You should measure it and subtract that number from the length of your chain. Or leave it for a margin of error in case you lose a ring or two.

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